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Saturday June 14, 2008
From the travel journal of Chrome Dome;
Technical facts: Started trip with 61612.8 miles on "Casper". Total miles with all travels included, ending
mileage (65044.5) total for adventure = 3431.7 miles.
Gas prices varied from $3.89/gl in Springfield when I filled before trip to $4.29/gl was the highest price paid for gas
along the way. Total $ spent on gas for trip estimated at $366.00. No other major mechanical expenditures. Casper was a great
ride!
Day 1-Sat- June 7
After a week of "Maggie" time, while her parents were away, I rose early (4:00am) and showered to wake up, consumed
½ pot of coffee and stowed the last of the gear in the bike. I mounted "Casper" at Darren and Sarah's house and
rode out the driveway at 4:47am. Maxine was up and sent me off with a kiss and a 'have a good time'. 'Be safe' was the last
thing I heard her say as I pushed 'Casper' off his center stand and rolled to the curb. I fired up my trusty mount and with
much trepidation I headed him West towards Goddard, Kansas to meet up with my trusty riding partner, Jerry.
The sun was not yet up and I had visions of Bambi's lining up to jump in front of me and ruin the whole trip right away.
To no avail, I managed to get to Parsons, Ks for my first gas stop. A few minutes strolling around the parking lot revealed
several young families preparing for a day of baseball.
Continuing on down Highway 400, I reached Wichita and eventually Goddard, Ks., our designated meeting location, by 9:19am.
I refueled and was seated with my breakfast ordered and about delivered when Jerry walked in the door. The temperatures had
been cool and conducive for riding, up until we prepared to leave Goddard. As the temperatures rose steadily throughout the
day we consumed liter after liter of water. By the time we reached Greensburg, Ks, around 1pm, I decided to shed my jacket
and full-faced helmet for a short sleeve shirt and my Chrome shorty. Ample sun screen was applied and the exposure was welcomed.
While in Greensburg we met several people returning from a mission trip to Mexico. They had completed a Habitat for Humanity
mission and were very high on their accomplishment. They were all interested in our destination and expressed various levels
of jealousy in wishing they could do something like that. They wished us safe travels and we parted company as we headed West.
Every hour that pasted saw the temperature rise consistently until it was in the high 90's. The steady Southerly wind
was forecast to be 20-30 mph gusts but in reality it was a steady 50 mph 90+degree wind we rode into for several hundred miles.
By the time we arrived in Liberal, Ks., we were roasted. We stopped for gas and some fluids. I failed to take on as much water
as Jerry and it would eventually cost me.
About 15 miles North of Dalhart, TX. I was beginning to feel nauseated, light headed to the point I was shaking my head
regularly to see the road. I scanned the horizon for some shade tree to find some relief from the consistent wind and the
unbearable heat. For future reference, there are only two trees between Liberal, Ks. and Dalhart, Tx. They are both at a small
roadside rest area, 10 miles North of Dalhart.
I somehow made it to the comfort of the shade. By the grace of God and Jerry's foresight, he had some cold water that
saved my life, of that I'm sure. After some water and a few minutes in the shade we once again mounted our steeds and rode
into the face of the unrelenting breeze, headed for Dalhart, some fuel and much needed hydration. Revived by some air conditioning
and 2 liters of water, I was prepared to continue on to Tucumcari, NM. Where else was I going to go? What a desolate part
of the country, no trees, no houses and nothing for miles and miles. We rode by two of the biggest feed lots we've ever seen.
10's of thousands of cattle just hanging around waiting to be part of the food chain. What and incredible sight! And smell!
I can't tell you how much joy and elation I felt when we finally passed the sign for the Tucumcari Airport. Even though
it was several miles north of town, I knew we were there and I was truly grateful. We made a couple passes through town before
we found the Super 8 motel and checked into our room. Dinner was taken at the Lizard Lounge. The food was nothing spectacular,
the pies however, were, a piece of coconut cream for me and lemon for Jerry.
Day 2- Sunday- June 8
The amazing surprise came the following morning as we prepared to pack our bikes for day 2's departure. A note on my windshield
from Curly Don said to call them before we took off. They had somehow ended up at the same motel even though they arrived
at 4am and had no idea where we would be. Right across the parking lot was Skid's truck with their bikes mounted on the trailer.
Jerry and I laughed about what the odds were for that to happen.
Jerry was concerned with his oil level and added some oil to his bike before we left Tucumcari headed west. Rode the 60
miles to Santa Rosa and topped off the tanks before we headed for Albuquerque. It was a great relief to stop and re-fuel.
Butts beginning to let us know they were not yet in shape for this many miles. Great weather made the trip bearable, but the
miles were beginning to add up. We made it to Gallop, NM for next fuel stop and some Subway for lunch. Spent some time in
the shade after lunch, met some folks from Nebraska. We took photos of the mountains from the gas station.
On to Winslow, AZ. We both noticed how many trains were running parallel with the highway. With only 60-70 miles to go,
we were both getting anxious to get to our final destination. Rolled into Flagstaff about 5:30pm and found our way to Jerry's
sister's house without any problems. More than ready to stretch our legs and down a cold beer, they were very accommodating.
We got a call from Curly Don; they were somewhere near Albuquerque and thought they would make it before we turned in. They
pulled in about 9:00 Pacific time and unloaded the truck, dismounted their bikes and had some dinner prepared by Chris. Photos
opt watching them unload. Parked the truck and trailer at a neighbors house. All the Chromie's in one place, ready to rise
and ride on Monday morning. Von made sure we were all settled. Jerry and I set up camp in the apartment, Don and Skid in the
spare room.
Day 3- Monday- June 9
"Grand Canyon Day", early rise, coffee, nut bread and then we rode to the canyon. Von rode two up with Jerry
and Chris drove the "sag wagon". Got to the canyon and parked in a shady lot near the train station below the hotel.
Walked up to the hotel and got to see seven condors floating near the visitor center. Park rangers were very excited, they
hardly get to see the condors and we saw seven. They were so close you could read the numbers tagged on their wings. Very
cool! Lots of photo time here. Good shots of group and Chris got several great ones of the condors. He will share them later.
Did the typical tourist thing, walked around a lot and purchased a patch for my vest.
Chris and Von packed a picnic lunch we all enjoyed. I talked with some folks from New Hampshire. Very nice folks, my group
couldn't believe I would just start talking to folks at the next table. Conversation lasted through out lunch and we had a
good time meeting them.
After lunch we rode along the south rim and over to the watchtower for more photo opportunities. Group photo taken somewhere
along the way. I made the group laugh when I continued to offer to take family photos for other tourists. Probably took four
or five families photos for them. They appreciated the offer. We rode on to the East exit and towards the Painted Desert.
Turned south towards Flagstaff and rode along the back of the mountains until it was dusk. We took Chris and Von out for dinner
at a local brewery and walked around downtown afterward, more photos opts. We went home for some biker BS time and down around
11pm.
Day 4, Tues - June10
Phoenix day- We began the day with our first trip down the Oak Creek Canyon. Temperature was cool and jacket felt great.
There were multiple twisties as we descended into the canyon. Casper and I took our time and enjoyed the scenery as much as
possible. Don and others were more aggressive at attacking the curves. They like that. The lower we went, the warmer it got,
until it wasn't necessary for jackets by the time we got to Sedona,AZ. We all enjoyed the ride down so much we decided to
ride it back up again. This time we stopped a couple of times for some photo opts. Met a fellow named Reinhart, from Germany,
at one location. He was a very interesting guy, probably in his 70's and very happy to be touring America. He wished us well
on our journey and we parted his company headed towards Phoenix via Cottonwood, Jerome, Prescott, Wickenburg and Peoria.
Before we left Sedona, Don wanted to visit some cathedral on the hill. We rode on 179 headed out of town. Construction
had traffic at a stand still for anyone going into town but we managed to ride right to the cathedral. Very cool, some photos,
not sure if it was a good idea after we had to walk our bikes back into town with all the stopped traffic. One hour walking
the bikes back through town, the heat and the dirt from the construction.
We stopped in Cottonwood for some cold water and fuel as needed. We all lathered up with sunscreen for the journey to
Phoenix. As we rode through a construction zone on our way up to Jerome, dust blew in my eyes and I wiped them with my sunscreen
laden fingers. Bad idea!!! I do not recommend that to anyone, especially if you are about to ride a 900 pound motorcycle up
a very steep hill. Couldn't see anything and my eye lids were swollen.
Stopped in Jerome and the guys gave me medical attention with eye wash and eye drops until I thought I could go on. I
tried again and only made it about two blocks before I had to take some more time to wash my eyes. Eventually, I had to take
the truck to minimize the wind in my eyes. Somehow, I don't exactly know how, but we made it down the mountain and on to Yarnell,
AZ.
Don took over in the truck and drove to his daughters in Buckeye to deliver a motorcycle. Jerry, Dave and I rode into
Phoenix. Dave called his cousin and they met him and took him home with them. Jerry and I met Huck, Celia and her boys at
the Olive Garden about 8pm for dinner. KC and Jake and their families had to leave earlier because their kids are small and
had to get to bed. I'll apologize via email when I get home. About 10pm Jerry and I checked into the Hampton Inn where the
Seattle Mariners AA team was staying. We called Curly Don and gave him directions and then we crashed. Hard! Don came in sometime
after mid-night but I don't think he disturbed either of us.
Day 5 - Wed - June11
Peoria, AZ- For some unknown reason I have acquired Jerry's internal clock and we both woke up at about 6:30 CST/ 4:30
PST. Too early so I took my shower got dressed and went down for their complimentary breakfast. I sat in the shade in front
of hotel trying to acclimate to the heat of Phoenix. Met a guy who is retired Army Major and was traveling with a buddy to
retrieve a Corvette from California. He was very interested in our journey and seemed to be at ease talking with us. He is
into building street rods and thought he would like to try biking.
Dave stayed with his cousins last night but found his way over to the hotel in the morning. While he showered and dressed,
Don ate some breakfast and joined our conversation on the patio. We filled our water bottles and packed our bikes for a very
long loop through the Salt River Canyon and back to Flagstaff. By 9:00 am it was already very hot in Phoenix as we rode the
freeways across town. I don't recommend riding in Phoenix, too much traffic and more than their share of jerks with drivers
licenses. I had to pull off once and wash my eyes again; they were still hurting from the sun screen the day before. Don gave
me his goggles and it kept the wind out of my eyes, great relief. Thank God we made it to the turn off to Globe. Seemed to
be construction going on everywhere in Arizona, this road was no exception.
Even with the construction, the two lane road to Surprise was a welcomed relief from the massive freeways of Phoenix.
Stopped in Surprise for a water break and returned a call to Marti Robison. They were on their way home and said they would
meet us at the bottom of Salt River Canyon at the rest stop there. It was great to ride down into the canyon and even better
to see the Robison's again. After a short visit in the heat, a couple photos to document our crossing of paths and off we
climbed out to Show Low. Elevation change brought much needed relief from the heat. We stopped for fuel, a quick lunch and
calls to Dave so he could meet up with us for the ride back to Flagstaff. We came across Dave somewhere between Payson and
Heber, AZ. Lots of high plains grazing meadows with evidence of recent fires. Got turned around in Payson, missed the turn
for the highway and took a tour through some neighborhood. Eventually made it back to the right road and traveled west toward
Strawberry, AZ. Stopped in small station for fuel and butt break and the gal behind the counter suggested we follow highway
3 back to Flagstaff. We did and it was really good roads. There were lots of long sweepers through high pine forests. We had
a problem with the angle of the sun at this time of day. We were all concerned with the possibility of deer being in the shadows.
We couldn't see from the day light into the shade and it made for a very nerve racking experience. We stopped several times
to look for alternative routes, no luck. All the stopping did allow time for the sun to sink just enough for us to make it
back without any mishaps. Had dinner of a delicious Mexican casserole with plenty of ice cold beer and tales by everyone.
No problem falling asleep tonight.
Day 6 Thur June12
We wanted Don to experience the road from Cottonwood to Prescott on his bike, so we rode through Oak Creek Canyon to Sedona
again. Then we went over to Cottonwood this time without any 'sunscreen' incidents. Up the twisty road to Jerome and stopped
to take in some of the vistas. Very cool town built right up the side of a steep mountain. There are loads of artists and
artsy shops. Good for another visit, this time I could see it! Highway 89 from Jerome to Prescott was one of our favorites.
The twisties through Mingues Mountain Recreational Area was certainly a highlight of the day's ride.
We had to share the road on several occasions with bikers riding across America. Their support vehicles slowed our pace
to a crawl more than once, except Don. Double yellows, curves, it didn't matter he was going to experience the curves full
out. Casper and I however, putted along and enjoyed the scenery since my last time through was visually impaired. I did get
to see a mama bear and her cub scurry across the road and up the hillside just as I rounded one of the many 15mph curves.
Scrawny little Mama bear about as big as a dog.
We took lunch at Pete's Family Restaurant in Prescott, AZ. Buckwheat pancakes and eggs for Don. Platter full of roast
beef, potatoes and vegetables for 'Skid', burgers for Jerry and I. Plenty of water, some map research again and back the way
we came towards Jerome. Well, sort of. Jerry missed the turn on Williams Canyon Road and we took a 12 mile excursion out into
the desert. Wouldn't you know it, there were multiple bikers still riding Across America even out in the desert? I wondered
what their route could possibly be. It is certainly not something I ever want to do. Casper just smiled as he roared by them.
The twisties were just as good in the reverse direction. This time I picked up the pace and on one of the 15mph curves
I swung out wide, Jerry nearly clipped a guard rail and thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic. Jerome was now full
of tourists, parking spots hard to find. Dave wanted to stop at one of the shops but when we struggled to find parking he
decided he didn't need to shop so bad after all. He indicated we should just go on towards Cottonwood. We stopped at the ARCO
station in Cottonwood, AZ where gas was selling for a cash price of $3.82/gal. Remarkable how many people would clamor for
$3.82/gal gas. We had to negotiate the parking lot atmosphere to exit the station.
On to Sedona and the inevitable construction zone traffic, again! This time we 'walked' our bikes approximately two miles
into town. We were always contending with the 'jerks' that rush up the right hand lane and try to poke into traffic at the
last minute. That really began to piss me off. Time and patience found us cruising through Oak Creek Canyon, by Slippery Rock
State Park, up the twisties and progressively homeward. The steady rise in elevation brought a much appreciated relief in
the temperature. By the time we reached the Scenic Overlook we were comfortable and cruising along back to Flagstaff.
We decided to take Chris and Von out for dinner in downtown Flagstaff. Had Navajo tacos in a nostalgic hotel and spent
some time perusing the art galleries and shops before we returned to pack our gear. A live band was playing in the square
downtown. There were lots of people milling around. It composed an unusual mix of young, tourist and artisan types all enjoying
the wonderful evening in Northern Arizona. Then it was back to Von's house and the inevitable packing of gear for the return
home.
It was apparent that Von had enjoyed having us visit. She honored me with a pair of earrings for Maxine. She and Jerry
visited as we packed our gear and she had a hard time facing the reality that we would be leaving early the next morning.
Lights out about 11:00p.
Day 7 Fri - June 13
Planned for an early exit, but when I woke up to the birds singing at 4:00a, I wasn't expecting to leave this early. The
temperature had dipped to the mid 30's overnight and standing on the front deck taking our morning coffee, Jerry and I both
marveled at the beauty of the scenery. By 5:00a we were already processing the coffee and the bikes were packed. We hesitated
to go until the sun was higher in the sky and the temperature rose to a more tolerable level. By 5:30 we could wait no longer.
As we opened the garage door and adorned the necessary warm weather clothing, Von scurried out to say her final goodbyes.
A big hug for both of us and a heartfelt request to return and we were mounted and headed into the morning sun.
The first few miles to Winslow, AZ was somewhat nerve racking. The sun was right in our vision and the woodland creatures
weren't done scurrying across our path. Thank goodness Jerry took the lead and all I had to concentrate on was his hypnotic
blinking tail light. I never saw any creatures playing Red Rover across I-40,so my only contention was to stay close enough
to Jerry to see that darn tail light. By 6:30a we pulled into Winslow for some fuel to top our tanks and by now the butt breaks
were becoming more frequent and necessary. We were well over 2000 miles of saddle time and my 'derrière' was noticing it.
With a full tank of petrol, we had nothing but Interstate in front of us. The traffic was almost non-existent and we could
roll along at 75mph unimpeded. As the sun rose in the sky and the world began to wake, we witnessed a glorious day for riding.
The winds were a mere 10-20mph breeze from our backs and the temperature was steadily rising to a comfortable level. We had
nothing to do but rides our steeds into the rising sun towards Gallup, NM.
After a much appreciated butt break, more fuel and some liquid refreshment we left Gallup and headed for Albuquerque.
The traffic was beginning to increase, mostly 'jerks'. The truckers are friendly and accommodating but the 'jerks' must drive
with their head up their asses. Work zones, gusty wind areas, congested traffic it didn't matter to them they rode your ass
close enough to smell their coffee. Glad to pull over and let them get as far away from us as possible. The scenery was becoming
consistently boring. We were back in the area that makes one wonder why someone would 'chose' to live out here? What could
they possibly do for a living? Man that coffee seems to go through me faster these days! 68 miles to Albuquerque, gosh I hope
I don't blow a gasket. I wonder if Jerry needs to pee? Why does the stool softener always wait to work when I'm out here?
Darn, maybe if I put on the Bocelli, I'll forget about all this.
Whew, Albuquerque straight ahead. Lunch at a What-a-burger, more fuel, less coffee and back on our way. Time to adjust
our riding attire. Temperature in mid 80's perfect riding day. Next stop was Santa Rosa to top off fuel and give our back
sides another break. Jerry met a biker pulling a trailer that was headed back to St. Louis. He cut short his trip to Alaska
in Boise, Idaho. He said he didn't like riding in the snow. So he made a bee line for warmer temperatures and was headed home.
We headed East to Tucumcari, short ride, but needed to top off our tanks to reach Amarillo, TX. Besides, our rears were really
screaming by now, I could feel a pulse in by left cheek. Even Titanium Jerry was feeling the pain by now.
The breaks began to last just a little longer, not sure if it was physiological necessity or psychological. It was becoming
harder to face the reality that the adventure was winding down. Even so the anticipation of getting home was beginning to
steadily grow. Back in the saddle and on to Amarillo for the night. We arrived around 6:30p, found a Motel 6 next to the Harley
dealer and stowed our gear. Made our way to Dyer's BBQ and filled up on some much needed nourishment. We filled our tanks
on the way back to the motel and after checking out the Weather Channel, lights out. (14 hrs in the saddle).
Day 8 Sat June 14
Even though we were back in Central Standard Time, we rose about 6:00am and prepared to get underway. We had decided to
ride for awhile before we took breakfast so we could escape the traffic and confines of Amarillo. That proved to be somewhat
of a mistake. For future reference, there is nothing, nowhere, East of Amarillo. We rode for about 100 miles searching for
some kind of café where we could get some coffee and eggs. NOT!! As fate would have it, an ominous fog bank rolled into the
panhandle of Texas. At 8:00 in the morning! What the h..? It was as eerie as a Hitchcock movie. We creped along following
the tail lights of J B Hunt trucks, no less. Tried to stop twice for some breakfast but the towns were desolate or had no
café that we could find, so on the road again until we climbed out of the fog or found a viable eatery.
Shamrock, TX , believe it or not, was a welcomed sight. The fog was releasing us from it's grip and the infamous golden
arches was visible on the right. We stopped at McDonald's, had some breakfast, coffee, inspected their 'clean' restrooms,
refueled next door and back on the road. The fog had burned off now by the always present Texas heat. Cruise control set,
and next stop planned for OK Cty. A couple of the 'jerks' met somewhere near Elk City, OK so that slowed traffic to a stand
still. After we got past the 'spectacle' we pulled into a truck stop to let the traffic thin out. And our butts needed some
relief as well. A fifteen minute break and we were under way again, headed for OK City, fuel and lunch.
We arrived in Yukon, Ok., abundantly displayed 'Home of Garth Brooks', and stopped for fuel(some eye candy) and lunch
at Braum's. Funny thing about Yukon, there is a sign outside of town announcing it's the home of Astronaut----;somebody, but
when you get to town there is a giant sign announcing it's the home of Garth. They even have Garth Brooks Blvd. I'll bet he
hardly ever comes home.
Jerry and I discussed map strategy and decided to part company in Tulsa. With our tanks and bellies full, we departed
for the final leg of our adventure together. A quick swing around the north side of Oklahoma City and on to the Turnpike towards
Tulsa. Funny thing about their turnpikes in Oklahoma. You don't stop for a ticket as you enter the turnpike, instead you pay
as you exit or at a toll booth halfway through the length of the road.
The intent was to stop somewhere as we got to Tulsa, refuel, say our goodbyes and head home separately. However, when
we departed the turnpike there was no good stopping place and we ended up waving at each other as we parted somewhere in downtown
Tulsa. Jerry headed for 75 north and I was taking yet another turnpike towards Joplin.
I stopped at a Quik Trip for some water and fuel before I rode the last leg home. I'll have to admit, I felt somewhat
isolated without my riding partner in my rearview mirror. The last 120 miles was a good time to reflect on our adventure,
the generosity of Chris and Von and the amazing way the four of us can coordinate such an adventure without ruffling each
others feathers. It was truly another 'Chromie' experience.
When I arrived in Joplin, Mo., I truly began to 'feel' at home once again. The closer I got to Springfield the more I
relaxed and even my rear didn't hurt any more. As I tuned to a known radio station, I felt like I hadn't even left. Time had
stood still until I returned from this Arizona Adventure. I made it home on fumes, grilled myself a steak, had a hot shower
and literally dissolved into my own bed. Thanks go to Jerry, Curly, Skid, Chris & Von and especially Casper. 3414 miles
and glad to be home.
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